Arena
Magazine December 1999 
Landing Party Five-star island hopping Standing on the deck of the Irene, with a champagne cocktail in hand, relishing the relative cool of the evening breeze as the orange sun finally dips down to touch the Caribbean, it is hard to imagine a more perfect end to a day. Or a more perfect beginning. You rise at dawn, although no alarm call is necessary, such is the pattern of life that comes naturally on board. After breakfast, you will have climbed to the breath-taking (literally) 4,000-foot top of Mount Soufriere, St Vincent's still bubbling volcano, and on the return hike through the rainforest, enjoy a revitalising plunge in a mountain pool. Then, after returning to the boat following lunch, you could dive overboard to swim through the clear blue water to an off-shore volcanic plug and explore the remnants of the 18th century fort that lies at the summit. The day then acquires a nicely narcotic quality when the Irene sets sail for the next port of call; and, with Bob Marley booming from the deckboard speakers, schools of dolphins dart out of the millpond sea to join the boat's progress. And possibly to complain about the music. Yet once the Irene drops anchor, there is still time for a spot of water-skiing. And only the promise of that champagne cocktail and the sudden darkness of dusk in the Tropics persuades you back on board. Nice. The Irene is a 120-foot coastal ketch, a wooden sailing ship that is now offering luxury, all-inclusive charters in the Caribbean. She was built in Bridgewater at the turn of the century, one of thousands of her type that used to lug tons of coal, clay and other cargo around the coasts of Britain. She wsa part of the British merchant fleet in both world wars and retired in 1960. There are just four such ketches remaining, and lovely old Irene is the only one that is still sea-going, thanks to a painstaking, four-decade restoration job by her owner. To call Irene a floating hotel would do it a disservice - this is no glistening gin palace, but a real boat which even the most avowed landlubber will want to help sail before the charter is over. But in no way are you slumming it. Irene accommodates up to ten guests, and has five friendly crew to tend to you. Cabins are air-conditioned and there is a full bar with piano. Guided island tours, snorkelling, diving, sailing, mountain biking, golf - all can be part of a unique, bespoke Caribbean holiday. The sultry evenings are remarkable for the number of tequilas slammed ashore. And for us there was the joy of repelling a bunch of repulsive Australians (all from Greg Norman's garish multi-millionaire dollar yacht, Aussie Rules), who tried to join our on-board party at 4am. Because of the time of year, we sailed through the Grenadines, ostensibly to use waters south of the hurricane belt.We still hit some of the "weather" created by Hurricane Floyd, yet eating breakfast on deck as we sailed through the swells was one of the highlights of the week. The weather also meant that we sailed past Mustique (no safe anchorages), but had to make do with beautiful Bequia, and a beach barbeque on one of the paradise islands that make up the Tobago Cays. But by this time we were feeling well content. Well you would. Stephen Downes |